Candice and I extended this past weekend with a couple vacation days to visit my Oma (informal German for Grandmother) out in Humboldt County, California. My parents visit her twice per year, once in March and once in October, and I try to coordinate an annual visit while they're out there. My Oma, still going strong at 95 years old, shares property with my uncle John out in Freshwater, CA, close to the twin-city metropolis of Eureka/Arcata about a five hour drive north of San Francisco. We were able to book flights the whole way through to Eureka/Arcata airport (ACV) thereby eliminating the need for a rental car and the beautifully intense northward drive. Though I have a sentimental attachment to that long trek from San Francisco, side-stepping the wine regions and through the redwoods, flying the whole way made for a less stressful journey. As usual, I took a ton of pictures and you can find a selection thereof in the Flickr photo set here or the slide show here.
We caught the first United flight out of Chicago on Thursday morning and arrived at ACV shortly before 1pm Pacific. Clear skies and smooth flying the whole way.
I had to work remotely on Friday (thank god for Oma’s wifi), but I took a long break during the day to visit Eureka. We did the customary stroll through Old Town and down to the bay to check out the progress on the Boardwalk expansion project. Not much progress for such a beautiful little town. Makes me wonder how many delightful little places there are in this country and on this earth that can't get the economic traction required for substantial growth. Never dismayed, Eureka is also home to a couple outstanding used book stores which are dear to Candice's heart. She found four nice, old editions while the rest of us split to the antique stores and coffee shop. We took a quick spin through one of the rummage stores where my mom replenished Oma’s wine glass collection (3 glasses for $1.50).
From there we hit up the Eureka Co-op grocery store, food paradise to vegetarians and vegans, to pick up some fixings for the weekend’s dinners and lunches. Best. grocery. store. ever. Aisles and aisles of weirdness. That night the omnivores had Dungeness crab and the veg-heads had homemade seitan. Around the table we talked, laughed, and listened to Oma recall stories of the old days in Germany. What a life she’s had.
Saturday after breakfast we took a hike up and around the hill behind my Uncle John’s house. Once you get through the brush, you come to an extremely hilly gravel road upon which we found a number of curious industrial vehicular relics. A photographers delight.
After the hike we explored “downtown” Arcata which involves the typical walk around the square, a coffee stop at Café Brio, and one of my favorite northern California pastimes: Degenerate Watching. If you haven’t spent time up in Humboldt County, you may not be aware that it’s 1) the marijuana capital of the US and correspondingly 2) home to an otherworldly number of degenerates. The degenerates are often bearded, usually dreadlocked, occasionally juggling, and always, always stoned. Watching them operate (or not) is pure joy.
Anyway, we sipped our lattes outside in the sun, visited a few stores to gift shop for those taking care of our animals at home, grabbed a couple t-shirt souvenirs, and were on our way.
Having already hit the twin-cities, we decided to catch some scenery on the Pacific coast north of Arcata on Sunday. First stop was Patrick’s Point State Park, a 600+ acre plot of land with beaches, camping, trails, a $7 entry fee, and plenty of coastal scenery. We made the short trek out to windy Wedding Rock, then the longer trek down to Agate Beach to scour for agates. On our way back south we hopped off 101 and made a customary stop at Trinidad to grab some snacks and check out the bay. We watched a few fisherman lined up down the pier and I noticed their bait (cooked, jumbo shrimp) was more pricey than my average meal. Despite the overcast conditions, the views were stunning as always…Candice wants a second home there and I think she’s already picked it out. Anyone have a Starbucks application handy? I’m going to need a second job.
Monday was our day of departure and I was sad to count the hours down until we had to leave. We returned to Eureka for breakfast and Candice found another four early editions in a different used book store in Old Town. We cruised through one final rummage store and just relaxed for the afternoon and evening. One puddle-jump and a red-eye later and we found ourselves home before 6am Tuesday.
Humboldt County will always have a special place in my heart, and not just because my Oma calls it home. I first visited at age 14, the summer before starting High School during which I converted to pescatarianism (to the sheer delight of my parents). I’ve now been there upwards of 6 or 7 times and eagerly look forward to my next visit. I already miss the fresh air…
